İstanbul from scratch: The Erasmus Odyssey

Story and photos by Jon Zabala Villar

Istanbul is a vibrant, diverse, and chaotic city. For Erasmus students, it offers a unique opportunity for personal growth—but not without challenges. Navigating housing, transportation, cultural differences, and the language barrier are just a few of the hurdles students face upon arrival.

Through firsthand accounts, this story explores the real-life struggles and successes of international students adjusting to life in Istanbul. From practical issues like haggling in markets or avoiding taxi scams to social experiences like making local friends or finding nightlife spots, the goal is to present a clear, grounded view of the Erasmus experience in one of Europe’s most complex cities.

Public transportation: A daily adventure

For most Erasmus students, the first challenge is mobility. Istanbul, a sprawling metropolis of over 16 million residents divided by the Bosphorus Strait, is often the largest and most intricate city they’ve ever encountered. Getting from one place to another can take hours, and the public transportation system—while extensive—can be overwhelming.

The city's transportation network includes metro lines, trams, buses, the Metrobus (dedicated bus lanes), ferries, and funiculars, all integrated under the Istanbulkart, a rechargeable card used across modes. In theory, it’s efficient. In practice, the experience is often exhausting. Schedules can be unpredictable, vehicles overcrowded, and signage confusing—especially for those unfamiliar with Turkish.

“It takes me almost two hours to get from my house to the university,” says Carlos, a student at Doğuş University. “Between the ferry, metro, and walking, it’s quite an excursion. At first, I was constantly getting lost.”

Many students live on the Asian side, while most universities are on the European side—necessitating daily crossings of the Bosphorus. While ferries are scenic and exciting at first, they quickly become time-consuming, particularly during rush hours (7:00–9:30 AM and 5:00–7:30 PM), when boarding can feel like entering a battle.

“I once got stuck at the subway door; there was simply no more room,” recalls Javier, a student at Marmara University.

Apps like Google Maps, Moovit, Trafi, or Istanbulkart Mobil are invaluable for planning routes, though they’re not always accurate. Private transportation, including ride-hailing services like BiTaksi or Uber, offers an alternative, but prices can be steep—especially for non-Turkish speakers who fall prey to inflated rates.

Adapting means finding tricks: taking less crowded ferries, walking when possible, or syncing your schedule to off-peak times. Over time, students find their rhythm—and with it, a new appreciation for the complexity of Istanbul.

Accommodation: Navigating the housing maze

Finding a place to live in Istanbul is no easy feat. Unlike many European destinations, the city lacks a centralized housing system for foreign students, pushing most Erasmus participants to seek accommodation independently.

Facebook groups and student forums are the most common tools for house-hunting, often relying on tips from former Erasmus students. “We chose our residence because some friends stayed here last year—it was the only lead we had,” explains Javier.

Some students, like Ali from Tunisia, arrive with only a short hostel stay booked, planning to secure a more permanent place once on the ground. “It was stressful,” he says. “Apartments were either too expensive or in bad condition. I finally found a room through an Erasmus WhatsApp group.”

Desirable neighborhoods like Kadıköy, Beşiktaş, and Şişli are popular for their student-friendly vibes and central locations—but that popularity comes at a price. Rents often reach €400 per month or more, and contracts can be misleading. “Our contract says we live in a duplex for €200 each. In reality, we’re in a cramped apartment paying twice as much,” says Gema, a Spanish student in a private residence.

Language and cultural communication: Bridging the gap

Language is one of the biggest initial barriers. While some young Turks speak English, especially in universities and tourist areas, the majority do not, making even simple interactions—ordering food, asking for directions, bargaining—challenging.

Learning a few key Turkish phrases can go a long way. Expressions like “Merhaba” (Hello), “Günaydın” (Good morning), “Tamam” (Okay), “Ne kadar?” (How much?), and “İyiyim” (I’m good) can open doors and build rapport. Body language, hand gestures, and smiles are essential tools for communication.

Some students take Turkish classes or use language apps, while others find the language’s complexity discouraging and give up quickly. “Turkish is nothing like my native language. I just stick to basics,” admits one student.

Shopping and bargaining: A crash course in street smarts

Shopping in Istanbul is more than a necessity—it’s a cultural rite of passage. Supermarkets like Migros, Şok, A101, and CarrefourSA offer clear pricing and familiar experiences. But when it comes to bazaars, flea markets, or small shops, haggling is a must.

Gema shares an early mistake: “I bought a lighter at the Kadıköy flea market for 300 lira. My friend got the same one for 75. That’s when I realized how things really work.”

Vendors often inflate prices for foreigners and tailor prices based on your perceived nationality. Some even charm customers by referencing their home countries. “A seller once told me, ‘Cheaper than Mercadona!’ I was shocked,” says a Spanish student.

Traditional markets are rich in atmosphere but also chaotic. Prices are rarely posted, and the noise can be overwhelming. Still, these experiences sharpen negotiation skills and give students a hands-on lesson in cultural navigation.

Nightlife: Culture, curfews, and clubs

Istanbul’s nightlife is a unique blend of modernity and tradition. From quirky pubs in Kadıköy to upscale clubs in Beşiktaş, there’s something for everyone—but not without obstacles.

“At first, we struggled to find places that played familiar music,” says Irene. “Some clubs won’t even let you in unless you’re in a mixed group or know someone local.”

Many Erasmus students organize their own events, collaborating with clubs to host theme nights or nationality-specific parties. But drinks are expensive, and public alcohol consumption is frowned upon. While not outright illegal, it can lead to fines or unwanted attention from authorities.

Nightlife is generally safe, but students are advised to stay alert—especially near Taksim or Istiklal, where scams and pickpocketing have been reported.

Food: A Delicious cultural dive

One of the most delightful surprises for many Erasmus students is the food. Istanbul offers rich culinary diversity at very affordable prices.

“You can eat well for under 150 lira,” says Marcos. “Doner, kebabs, and soups are everywhere—and they’re delicious.”

Popular dishes include:

• Kebap – Grilled meat in various forms
• Lahmacun – Thin dough topped with spiced meat
• Pide – Turkish-style stuffed bread
• Menemen – Eggs scrambled with tomato and pepper
• Simit – Sesame-crusted bread ring, a street-food staple
• Çorba – A variety of soups, especially popular in winter

Tea (çay) and Turkish coffee are cultural staples, enjoyed at any hour of the day.

Meal times tend to be earlier than in Europe, and spices are more prevalent. “Everything has spices—even things you wouldn’t expect,” laughs Clara, a student from Germany. “But you get used to it.”

Vegetarians generally fare well, with fresh salads and vegetable-based dishes common in most eateries. Cooking at home, however, is more complicated due to shared kitchen spaces and the high cost of imported goods. For many, eating out becomes the easier, cheaper option.

Exploring Istanbul: Magic and missteps

For Erasmus students, discovering Istanbul is essential to understanding it. The city’s mix of history, diversity, and energy invites constant exploration.

Must-see landmarks include:

• Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Basilica Cistern in Sultanahmet
• Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar, full of scents, colors, and chaos
• Topkapi Palace and Istanbul Modern, tracing the city’s evolution
• Camlica Mosque and Galata Tower, with sweeping views of the skyline

Off the beaten path, neighborhoods like Kadıköy and Moda offer a youthful, artistic vibe. Balat and Fener showcase Istanbul’s layered religious and cultural history, while Bebek and Ortaköy offer elegant waterside strolls.

“Every ferry ride between Europe and Asia feels like entering a new city,” says Claudia. “That’s the magic of Istanbul.”

Weekend escapes to the Princes’ Islands, especially Büyükada, provide much-needed quiet amid the city’s hustle.

Still, caution is needed. Students advise avoiding certain areas—especially at night—like parts of Taksim or distant districts such as Bağcılar and Esenler. Common scams include overpriced bills at touristy bars, street “guides” asking for tips, and hidden prices in shops.

“Always ask locals or other Erasmus students before heading somewhere unfamiliar,” suggests Carlos.

Adapting to the unexpected

Life in Istanbul is a lesson in flexibility, resilience, and curiosity. It’s not always easy—but the rewards are immense. For Erasmus students, each challenge—from deciphering bus routes to mastering market haggling—becomes a part of their personal growth.

In this city where continents meet, students don’t just study—they live, adapt, and transform. And in doing so, they leave Istanbul not only with memories, but with a new sense of self.